What are the ANSM guidelines for the use of essential oils in cosmetic product manufacturing ?

It is possible to use Essential Oils (EO) in a cosmetic product, provided that these substances pose no risk to human health.
In general, the associated risk assessment must take into account multiple criteria such as:

• The chemical structure of the substances used,
• The general toxicological profile of these substances,
• Their level of exposure,
• The specific characteristics of the areas of the body to which the product will be applied,
• Any specific characteristics of the group of people for which the product is intended.

However, in the case of essential oils, risk assessment requires personalised methodologies because these oils are often complex mixtures of different substances.
For this reason, ANSM has published two sets of recommendations concerning the use of essential oils in cosmetic products.

Recommendations relative to the quality criteria for essential oils

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Recommendations for assessing the risks associated with use of a product containing essential oils

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What’s the difference between a cosmetic product which contains essential oils and a medication?

Everything depends on the quality of the substances used and their concentration. Above a certain concentration level, the product can be classed as a “medicine”:

• By function, pursuant to Article L. 5111-1 of the Public Health Code,
• By presentation, according to the therapeutic claims indicated on the product.
  <Note: The Responsible Person must ensure that there is no risk to the consumer. They are therefore responsible for taking all necessary measures required to achieve this.